Nick,
everything you need is there, plus some parts that wouldn't be needed unless you ever split the crankcase. The 145 set is slightly cheaper, but does have the front crankshaft seal, which is a 30x42x8, as well as the rear seal. However, to replace the rear seal, you'd have to remove the flywheel, then you're into buying 5 new flywheel bolts.
With most engines I work on, a 'top end refresher' is all that's needed, decoking the heads plus a valve grind.
Maybe a new set of rings as well, depending how the gaps in the old ones measure up in the bore.
If that's the case with your engine, be very careful when refitting the cylinder heads, as I've lost count of the number of pushrod tubes which I've seen damaged by first-timers.
There's much less chance of such damage if the heads are offered up to the barrels with the rocker gear removed, then the pushrods and rocker gear can be added once the heads are safely home.
A couple of incidentals;
Replace those awful 'peg' bolts at the bottom end of the rocker shafts with M8 x 1.25 Allen screws, 35mm long, while you're at it.
Watch the torque on the M7 banjo bolts for the oil feed pipes to the cylinder heads, 8 lb.ft, is usually sufficient especially if the copper seals have been properly annealed. Don't mix up the bolts, as the 'odd one out' has the larger oilway drilling, 2mm dia. compared to 2 x 0.7mm dia. for those which go on the heads.