Rear Brake Question

[Cabo Ruby]

First of all I'd like to start with an introduction as a brand new owner of a Lambda 3 very recently brought back from Spain after a good few years running around in the sunshine. Used by a couple in their 80's who just got too old to get as much pleasure out of it as they felt it deserved. As a family friend I've stuck my hand up and paid for it to come home! Unfortunately it's been a long long time since I got under a car, so tools ability and memory are definitely a little lacking, you may get tired of me on here very quickly so apologies in advance!
The first thing I need is an MOT so I can insure and register, the problem is the rear brake is binding so getting it to a station is not possible without sorting at least that. With some cajoling when jacked the wheel will turn but with all my strength. Once the brakes are applied its on hard until you give it a knock about. So my question is am I looking at having to strip the whole thing down (tools like pullers and sockets for the 44mm nut will need to be bought) or is there something less involved I can try to sort the situation to get it to a station?

Regards El Cabo

[Jack602]

Have you tried moving the brake adjusters?

Jack
Pembleton Super Sport "Mon Petite"

[notsmartcar]

I’m afraid your going to have to remove drum and fix it before venturing out on to the road

[Cabo Ruby]

Thanks for the replies gents. Managed to get both adjusters moving yesterday. I can move the adjusters so I can't move the drum at all or I can lessen them until I can move it fairly easily about a third of a turn then it gets very tight. Will sort myself some tackle out to get the drum off and take it from there.

Thanks again
Steve

[notsmartcar]

When you backed off the adjusters so the wheel turned did it still turn freely after you had put the brakes on hard

[Cabo Ruby]

No it jammed on hard until I persuaded it to move again.

Steve

[notsmartcar]

Seized slave cylinder then

[Cabo Ruby]

Ok. So if i'm getting parts organised to do the job it looks like a new hub nut each time you remove one? And if a slave cylinder is seized does that mean it's always a replacement or can they be eased back into life ?

Steve

[billp]

Go for a new one - it's the best option in the long run. I've tried resurrecting seized cylinders and they never last. A new cylinder is not that expensive at less than £20, it'll be job done.
Bill

[Cabo Ruby]

Super. Found a spares supplier less than 10 miles away so if i'm making the trip for the nut i'll get a cylinder as well. Thanks gents