2CV rear hub removal

[Tamos]

Need to remove rear hubs on my Lomax to replace cylinders and shoes. I have “unpeened” the locking ring, and tried to undo the nut using 44mm socket with 1/2” drive and with 1.5m length of steel tube on the socket arm. Absolutely no movement apart from bending the socket arm. I assume it is right hand thread so anti clockwise to undo. Any ideas on how to remove it?
Cheers, Tony

[QFAD]

Hi Tony,

The nut is std Right hand thread, but torqued-up to around 250 to 290 lbft! You will need a good breaker bar (3/4" is what I use as 1/2" may not be up to the job) with a 1.5m or so section of thick walled tube - I have an old Guzzi fork tube. Also support the nut - I use an axle stand so there is no chance of the socket slipping off the nut.

It will give eventually, but it does require some effort.

[Tamos]

Hi QFAD,
You were quite right - the 1/2” drive was not strong enough, the bar simply bent. Determined not to be beaten, and having a socket that was useless in its standard form, I welded a piece of heavy gauge 1” square box section steel onto the back of the socket. With a 5ft length of scaffold pole slid over the box section I was able to achieve the required leverage and the hub nut came undone.
Having removed the hub I cannot understand why the nut needs to be at such a high torque setting, it only seems to hood the hub securely onto the bearings. Not having a suitable torque wrench, when reassembling I will do the nut up as tight as possible using the scaffold pole for leverage.
Cheers, Tony

[Vyv Cox]

I bought a 3/4 inch breaker bar for the job, although I needed a 4 ft heavy tube slipped over it to achieve the required torque.

I made the mistake of buying a strong impact socket to fit the nut, which turned out to have too great a wall thickness to fit inside the drum. It took a morning with an angle grinder to reduce it sufficiently.

I see that most internet suppliers sell a thin walled socket for the job.

[QFAD]

Hi Tony,

I managed to borrow a large 3/4" toque wrench from a local garage - it helped that living in a small village they new me, so happy to lend to me. If you offer a suitable deposit or bring the swinging arm/hub to them to tighten?

The torque figure may seem excessive, but the nut clamps the bearing and Brake drum - survives the worst any French farmer could possibly do to break it....

Over engineering at it's best!

[Tamos]

Nothing seems straightforward! Having got the hub off and dismantled the brakes there is a problem with one of the adjuster cams - it is seized solid and the nut has been butchered in the past. The actual cam, which appears to be riveted onto the bolt, is loose.
ECAS do replacements but the cam is fixed onto the bolt with a small screw, does anyone know if this will fit?
Cheers, Tony

[QFAD]

Hi Tony,

Yes they tend to seize solid, but soaking with penetrating fluid for a couple of days worked with mine - admittedly the hex was in good condition, so a flank drive socket freed the cam.

Can you file some flats or grip with mole grips in the last resort?

I have no knowledge of the ECAS offering, but a phone call to ECAS should clarify the fitment etc...

Good luck

Steve

[Davidm]

Hi QFAD,
You were quite right - the 1/2” drive was not strong enough, the bar simply bent. Determined not to be beaten, and having a socket that was useless in its standard form, I welded a piece of heavy gauge 1” square box section steel onto the back of the socket. With a 5ft length of scaffold pole slid over the box section I was able to achieve the required leverage and the hub nut came undone.
Having removed the hub I cannot understand why the nut needs to be at such a high torque setting, it only seems to hood the hub securely onto the bearings. Not having a suitable torque wrench, when reassembling I will do the nut up as tight as possible using the scaffold pole for leverage.
Cheers, Tony

Tony
Don't get carried away with a long scaffold pole when re-assembling ! To achieve the specified torque i use 3/4" drive socket and tommy bar with an extension tube but make a "stirrup "- (nylon belt) set at 2 ft. from the centre of the socket. So when I stand in the stirrup the torque is 140lb (my weight)x2ft = 280 lb ft.
Davidm

[Tamos]

Hi Steve,
The cam is completely shot, it spins on the shaft so wouldn’t work even if I freed the shaft. I am fairly sure the ECAS parts will fit so I intend to grind off the shaft and spacer until I can remove. I will dismantle the other hub and check the adjusters in case I need to order a full set.
Cheers, Tony

PS David, have just seen your post so will try your method when tightening.

[cmwbob]

Davidm
"So when I stand in the stirrup the torque is 140lb (my weight)x2ft = 280 lb ft."

Is that with or without shoes / clothes with wife watching to ensure safe working.