suspension can doughnuts

[mtvexl23]

I have a 2cv. The front doughnut is a bit squashed and the rear one I can turn easily by hand. This is on both sides so I'm kinda ruling out spring deterioration. Is this normal? And if not what's going on. The gaps given in the Haines manual L1,L2 and J are correct and the heights are good. AV (avance peut etre??) is at the front, half tank of fuel and spare tyre in etc When I did them this summer they were ok and the doughnuts although weren't brand new were very good. Any ideas. Should I follow the Burton video instead and forget the Haines spacings. Thanks for looking Michael

[notsmartcar]

Squished front and rotating rear is fine and if you jack up the car so that the front and rear wheels on one side dangle and you can rotate the actual spring canister it is as it should be too.

[mtvexl23]

Hi thanks for your reply. That's good news thanks. Still doesn't make sense to me as you would have thought they, the doughnuts, would be under equal pressure. Ok great. Thanks michael

[notsmartcar]

When new the big round canister was designed to move forwards and backwards between the rubber donuts to give the floaty ride associated with 2cvs. (On a three wheeler I would have rear donut as squished as the front mind.)

[mtvexl23]

Don't understand

[mtvexl23]

I've reread your post and I get it now. I was told that the ride in the old 2cv with the old cans was very rolly. Thanks M

[Ken Hanna]

mtvexl23,
the answer to this question is 'no', because the Burton video is incorrect and Haynes is correct.
Only the setting of the front threaded end-pieces can be carried out with the chassis 'on the bench'.
Setting the rear threaded end-pieces should be carried out with the vehicle assembled, its ride heights adjusted and the vehicle loaded as you've described.
The rear end-pieces are then set so that the clearance between the rubber buffer and the canister is 0mm to 2mm.
Note that it's easier to complete this rask with the dampers not fitted.

p.s. The Burton video for installing dampers is also incorrect, since it shows the M12 nuts securing the dampers being tightened with the suspension arms unloaded. Since this will result in the 'silentbloc' rubber bushes being strained,which is why it should only be carried out with the vehicle sitting on its wheels.

Ken

Should I follow the Burton video instead and forget the Haines spacings. Thanks for looking Michael

[mtvexl23]

Sweet, that makes sense to me. Got it. Happy New Year. M

[Ken Hanna]

mtvexl23,
the answer to this question is 'no', because the Burton video is incorrect and Haynes is correct.
Only the setting of the front threaded end-pieces can be carried out with the chassis 'on the bench'.
Setting the rear threaded end-pieces should be carried out with the vehicle assembled, its ride heights adjusted and the vehicle loaded as you've described.
The rear end-pieces are then set so that the clearance between the rubber buffer and the canister is 0mm to 2mm.
Note that it's easier to complete this rask with the dampers not fitted.

p.s. The Burton video for installing dampers is also incorrect, since it shows the M12 nuts securing the dampers being tightened with the suspension arms unloaded. This will result in the 'silentbloc' rubber bushes being strained when the arms are loaded,which is why it should only be carried out with the vehicle sitting on its wheels.

Ken

Should I follow the Burton video instead and forget the Haines spacings. Thanks for looking Michael