Citroen Specials Club - the club for all lightweight cyclecars

I own a Lomax223 SN°912 132. I have no feedback of the car except that the she was last, from 2001 to 2009 registered in the Isle of Wight.
The wiring was pretty bad and I had to redo it, I chose to buy one ready made from Burton and considering my poor knowledge it went quiet OK. A year later I am experimenting some difficulties. Sometimes while on the road if i use the main beam It will switch off the engine and other devices this can be for a second or few minutes. How embarrassing that is when you are in the traffic...
I first thought it was a ground issue, but the Burton loom is wired including the negative that should normally solve the issue!!
I then check the main connection from the ignition key, sounds ok too, but I must say that I dislike the concept as there are no relay and I had notice before changing the wires that this part was getting hot.. It seems to happen after few miles when parts are getting hot. if I do not use any electrical device but the ignition it seems to be OK.
Each time I could check during breakdown, the battery was issuing nearly 13v but I had no mean to check the amp. Is this a potential route to solve the issue?
This is to say that I am lost, big blue.. Ideas are welcome
Paul.

Paul,
It would help if you could post a wiring duagram from the Burton wiring loom.

There should be no relays in the ignition system (apart from the starter solenoid), but it would probably help to fit relays into the headlamp circuit, as this draws the greatest amperage.

Also, check the connectors on the back of the ignition drum are clean and fit tightly. It sounds as if you've got a resistance problem due to either a bad connector or inadequate wiring.

Rgrds
Callum

Lomax76,
I had the same problem last month, car died on route for the MOT, Control Technique.
checked out the fuses etc and came to the result, the ignition key switch was past it's sell buy date.
Bought and fitted a new one and all is well. It is held on by a ring band that has to be pried open with a sharp spike, watch there is a spring.
regards Bill D

Callum, Billdavies,
Thanks for your assistance, I had some suspicion on that ignition key as it had already suffered from heat prior to the wiring revamping, I had already changed the light and horn switch. As I had check the connections, I'll go for a new one. Most probably I'll try to fît relay for lighting, the car being fit with halogen it is even worse.
Unfortunately I do not have the Burton drawing, no delivered with the loom, but there is an erection procedure in a pdf format
http://www.burtoncar.com/pages/en/manua ... arness.asp
I'll keep you post on the progress
Regards Paul

Ps I do apologies for my poor English.

Sounds like a combination of things. I would be checking all the earths (grounds), the condition of the battery, the output of the alternator as well. I would be checking for current draw when the ignition is off too. How big are the battery leads and how long? I make leads up from welding cables. Important also to have the connections between the battery, the alternator, the regulator and the starter right.

Absolutely correct that the ignition switch could be at fault - the aftermarket ones are not very good quality and that's one of the reasons I just have a kill switch and a button rather than a key these days.

Geoff,
I have check earth, output of the alternator about 14,5 volts and does not seems to have any battery drainage, from the battery point of view as previously stated I have not check the amp but the car crank pretty well. Size and length of cables are OK and all new. So in order not to spoil anything I will start with the ignition switch.
Regards
Paul

Most probably a combination, I have changed the back of the ignition key and went for trial everything was ok for about 20miles until I reach home, getting into the garage there is a small hump that I usually pass on the compression I fail, engine stop and... no power. I have had my starter revamped some months ago may be I should explore further this way. Getting closer.
Paul

Last but not least it seems to be a battery problem even though I had a first test saying good at 82% a more accurate test said out of order.. Need to source one.
Paul

Hi Paul,
What the hell has happened to batteries?
In the late 60s early 70's I had a Commer van that became a problem to start on the starter motor because of no life. I took it to an auto electrician who "tweeked!" the voltage control box because the dynamo was ok but the battery was showing low. After he'd finished he put a meter on the external links on the battery cells and pronounced that one of the cells was dead. 18 months later, when the friend who by then owed it for mobile disc sold it, it still had the same battery!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
About 2 years ago, I drove my "tin top" about a mile to collect a friend (so the engine was relatively warm) to take them to the airport to take them on holiday. After waiting 5 minutes or so for them to load their luggage etc. the car would not turn over, because the battery was flat! I.E. knackered. A new battery, and to date (famous last words) no problems.

Hutchi,
Actually I cannot really complain as I do not know the historic of the battery it came with the car and it is for sure more than 5 years old and had suffered from few discharge. However, the problem come probably from a short circuit between elements, this will appear at any time heat , vibrations or increase of consumption. . I am now waiting for Tuesday, business are closed...
Paul