Citroen Specials Club - the club for all lightweight cyclecars

Have a standard 602cc set up with diaphragm clutch, and every thing is fine until after a decent run, and then the car left for 2/3 hours the clutch drags and cannot select a gear.
Even starting in gear with pedal on floor the car moves forward, but once away after a mile or so all is fine again, clutch perfect.
When started in morning cold clutch is perfect., it only happens after standing and still warm.
No oil leaks out of clutch housing, adjustment is spot on, baffled.
I have slipped the clutch to burn any goo off the pressure plate but no improvement.

Any ideas, or is it an engine out job.

Bearing in mind that the 2CV clutch is a very basic, tried and tested and simple system there isn't a huge amount to go wrong. Let's start with the easiest check. Make absolutely sure that there isn't anything obstructing or impeding the clutch pedal mechanism. Next check the entire route of the cable through the bulkhead to the clutch fork looking for any kinks or areas where it might bind. Get the car up in the ramps and have a really good check over of the clutch fork... It is easily visible from the underside. If all of that is in order then you might have to whip out the engine. Good luck with your problem solving.

I suggest you check adjustment before getting overly involved, sounds to me clutch bites way too low, hence heat expansion takes up the little slack you have and dragging clutch occurs

Had checked all adjustments but no improvement, then yesterday started engine and could not get into a gear, just crashing teeth. First time this has happened from cold, and if started in gear the car starts moving with clutch pedal to floor.

Seems like engine out job to sort it unless we have a magician in our midst,

Has clutch operating arm fractured i wonder?, back in the day we used to get lots Bx's with clutch fingers worn through, both will mean engine out to fix, does clutch feel heavier lighter?, if can see under car with someone operating clutch is operating arm fouling on gearbox, has bracket on bulkhead moved, sheared?, just few things to keep you amused over weekend, Alan

Yup, checked all that, nothing untoward, started car and the clutch was perfect again.

It must be a sticking clutch plate, I am going to pour or spray a solvent into the clutch housing as last desperate effort before
I whip the engine out.

Have laid under car and looked up at clutch, dry, no oil, rear crank seal perfect, arm working ok, and when it works it is perfect, so has to be something sticking plate to flywheel.

Cracked it with advice from a 2cv guru , Micky Mullet.
He suggested the clutch plate was sticking on the splined shaft, through dirt / dust contanimation, and advised that brake cleaner aerosol could be sprayed onto the clutch area from beneath the bell housing as the clutch is very visible through the aperture there.
I put the car on ramps and got her indoors to pump the clutch pedal [engine not running] while I used most of the can of brake cleaner over the clutch so that some would seep on to the spline, avoiding the black fluid that ran back out.

Started the engine and bingo, sweet as a nut, no clutch drag and have done over 100 miles with no problems.

Saved me an engine job.

Meldrew,
You are now running a dry spline.
When assembling a clutch you should wipe the spline( not slobbering copious amounts) with grease to lubricate the spline, it also serves to keep dust out of the interference joint as when assembling the clutch some is pushed into a ridge at the gearbox end.
It was a source of problems with VW clutch plates back in my dark ages...how do I know?
Something for the to do list when next the engine is removed, you could spray some chain lub onto the spline when the carrier eva[orates a grease film will be left. There is plenty of access to allow a spray can in.
regards Bill

Thanks Bill, yes it makes sense as the lack of any lube could cause the plate to stick.

i will get under again and spray some lube in, hoping I get some onto the shaft.