2cv6 pushrods
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kgnoble
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2cv6 pushrods
Good afternoon.
I have taken the LH Cylinder head off to replace pushrod sleeve seals because of oil leak.... and I see that one of the sleeves is crushed.....(could have been me some time ago putting the head back too harshly)
From reading everyone's comments here it seems that the sleeve at the block end is now too mangled and the tube needs replacement. Again reading the comments it seems that the replacement of the sleeve at the head can be problematic. I am prepared to have a go but have a few questions and would appreciate any suggestions.
1. Are there variations in diameter of sleeves? I have a 1980 Dyane engine
2. Can I replace just one or do I need to both on the same head at the same time?
3. I see that Ken Hanna says the best approach is to slice the end of the sleeve off at the head and then remove it by hacksawing vertically into the hole in head. Are there alternatives,(heating perhaps) while recognising that probably is the best method?
4. If the sleeve is an interference fit into the head and any expansion achieved by inserting a rawlbolt, I assume that is done from inside the head?
5. I can feel inside the push rod hole into the block, a tube/sleeve insert that moves. What is that and how does it relate to the end of the pushrod sleeve?
6. Might a cheap replacement head be a better alternative!
I would appreciate any comments - and although I have looked, if there are any YouTube videos showing the process I would be grateful for the link.
Many thanks in advance
Keith
I have taken the LH Cylinder head off to replace pushrod sleeve seals because of oil leak.... and I see that one of the sleeves is crushed.....(could have been me some time ago putting the head back too harshly)
From reading everyone's comments here it seems that the sleeve at the block end is now too mangled and the tube needs replacement. Again reading the comments it seems that the replacement of the sleeve at the head can be problematic. I am prepared to have a go but have a few questions and would appreciate any suggestions.
1. Are there variations in diameter of sleeves? I have a 1980 Dyane engine
2. Can I replace just one or do I need to both on the same head at the same time?
3. I see that Ken Hanna says the best approach is to slice the end of the sleeve off at the head and then remove it by hacksawing vertically into the hole in head. Are there alternatives,(heating perhaps) while recognising that probably is the best method?
4. If the sleeve is an interference fit into the head and any expansion achieved by inserting a rawlbolt, I assume that is done from inside the head?
5. I can feel inside the push rod hole into the block, a tube/sleeve insert that moves. What is that and how does it relate to the end of the pushrod sleeve?
6. Might a cheap replacement head be a better alternative!
I would appreciate any comments - and although I have looked, if there are any YouTube videos showing the process I would be grateful for the link.
Many thanks in advance
Keith
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Re: 2cv6 pushrods
Keith,
That loose thing in the block is the cam follower - which the push rod sits in. The push-rod tube shouldn't interfere with it.
You say that the tube end is crushed. Are you sure it's not savable? Can't you tap a socket down the tube from the other end, gradually restoring the shape? A bit of hammer and dolly work can work wonders.
Rgrds
Callum
That loose thing in the block is the cam follower - which the push rod sits in. The push-rod tube shouldn't interfere with it.
You say that the tube end is crushed. Are you sure it's not savable? Can't you tap a socket down the tube from the other end, gradually restoring the shape? A bit of hammer and dolly work can work wonders.
Rgrds
Callum
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kgnoble
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Re: 2cv6 pushrods
Hi Callum - thanks for your response.
Generally the project is going backwards; I think I should add to my blog which finished with the car complete and driving round the block. A few minor oil leaks is what has now taken me to stripping all the plumbing off, and now one of the heads.
I will have another look at the sleeve. It does look very mangled and I may send you a photo if and when I take one. I suppose nothing ventured nothing gained, so will have a go. Certainly I can see that a) I should do anything to avoid replacing the sleeve, and b) remove the pushrods before (carefully) reinserting the sleeves into the block!
If I can't straighten it out, how easy is it to replace the sleeve? Can I drift it out from the head or is it really tight and immovable?
K
Generally the project is going backwards; I think I should add to my blog which finished with the car complete and driving round the block. A few minor oil leaks is what has now taken me to stripping all the plumbing off, and now one of the heads.
I will have another look at the sleeve. It does look very mangled and I may send you a photo if and when I take one. I suppose nothing ventured nothing gained, so will have a go. Certainly I can see that a) I should do anything to avoid replacing the sleeve, and b) remove the pushrods before (carefully) reinserting the sleeves into the block!
If I can't straighten it out, how easy is it to replace the sleeve? Can I drift it out from the head or is it really tight and immovable?
K
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Colin-gser
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Re: 2cv6 pushrods
Hi
The aluminium in the pushrod tube is ver6 soft so should be salvageable with a bit of Care, it isn’t a tight fit into the crankcase, to be certain it’s oil tight use the better quality pushrod tube seals
Whatever you read pushrod tubes are v difficult to replace as metal so soft
Colin
The aluminium in the pushrod tube is ver6 soft so should be salvageable with a bit of Care, it isn’t a tight fit into the crankcase, to be certain it’s oil tight use the better quality pushrod tube seals
Whatever you read pushrod tubes are v difficult to replace as metal so soft
Colin
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kgnoble
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Re: 2cv6 pushrods
Hi
I chickened out and bought a secondhand head with guides intact!
Learning all the time..... Thanks for your interest
Keith
I chickened out and bought a secondhand head with guides intact!
Learning all the time..... Thanks for your interest
Keith
Re: 2cv6 pushrods
Hi,
Keith, as you were mentioning leaks at different places, you should, I think check that the duck beck is working properly in other words that the pressure in the lower engine is adequate. If not the reniflard needs to be changed
Keith, as you were mentioning leaks at different places, you should, I think check that the duck beck is working properly in other words that the pressure in the lower engine is adequate. If not the reniflard needs to be changed
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kgnoble
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Re: 2cv6 pushrods
Good point - I have already fitted a new reniflard so I am hoping that there will not be any problems in that direction. If there is any sign of a leak I will be looking up how to make a manometer!
Thanks for your interest - will report back as soon as I can get out to fit the new head...
Keith
Thanks for your interest - will report back as soon as I can get out to fit the new head...
Keith