9:1 upgrade from 8.5:1

[Lomax76]

Full of common sense and pragmatism is that isn't it?

p.s. Just rediscovered this, from Roy at ECAS some years back.
http://www.ecas.co.uk/2cv_tuning.htm#A10

In my Lomax the length between the top of the manifold to the top of K&N pancake filter is 132mm,

[hutchii]

Firstly, thanks to those who provided dimensions re space under a Lomax bonnet.

The 2 problems I've had while making my manifold have been keeping the top of the dashpot low enough and leaving sufficient space for a worthwhile air filter. The carb will be mounted with the air intake towards the ront, much like the Avion item. In this arrangement I've just got room for a 25mm thick pancake filter, without modifying the standard Renifard. I've read somewhere that because of their shape, pancake filters restrict airflow but that may have been in advertising for other types of filter. K&N?
The filter I'm using (no idea who made it) has the breather pipe attachment inside the diameter of the inner mesh ring, and therefore the foam. From a comment made in an earlier post, is this normal? I guess it shouldn't be a problem as at least there shouldn't be any debris in the oily fumes!

[QFAD]

Ken I reckon you have earnt more than enough brownie points to spend time with your grandson George - family should always come first. And many thanks for the info on the GS/GSA elbow - I will investigate!

Hutchii, your manifold sounds interesting - I had heard Avion had come up with a manifold with forward facing SU, I think Geoff RH posted a picture? I look forward to seeing pictures of your installation when complete. Myself, I have just accepted that a 'power bulge' is inevitable - maybe I can convince folk there is a super charger lurking beneath.....

Armando, looks like your barrels just neede a good fettle as suggetsed bt Ken. The advice regarding replacing valve stem seals is spot on, as is being patient with the valve grinding - worth being particularly diligent. maybe new rings as a precaution?

Steve

[Armando]

Honing is definitely worth a try, ifI can find a tool (Ken - have pm'd you).

The o/s barrel was in a similar state, although the piston was worse:

DSCF5707_(21May15).JPG (344.78 KiB) Viewed 17980 times

But it cleaned up okay:

DSCF5716_(21May15).JPG (301.02 KiB) Viewed 17980 times

This is one of the inlet valve assemblies, which is different to what is depicted in the Haynes manual......?

DSCF5722_(22May15).JPG (376.49 KiB) Viewed 17980 times

[Ken Hanna]

Armando,
looks as though that engine didn't receive the correct 'laying up' procedure, since that corrosion on the piston crown will have been caused by water in the combustion chamber.
It should have been dried out and had half a cupful of oil poured into the combustion chamber with the pistons at TDC.
Was the top ( compression) ring stuck in its groove?

Hope that any pitting on the barrel wall isn't too serious and if there is some, with any luck it will be above the surface swept by the rings.

The valve and its associated parts look to me to be the same as those depicted in Haynes...
Valve stem seal is a push fit on the valve guide, the ridges are simply to provide a better grip between the guide and the seal.

[Armando]

Armando,
looks as though that engine didn't receive the correct 'laying up' procedure, since that corrosion on the piston crown will have been caused by water in the combustion chamber.
It should have been dried out and had half a cupful of oil poured into the combustion chamber with the pistons at TDC.
Was the top ( compression) ring stuck in its groove?

Hope that any pitting on the barrel wall isn't too serious and if there is some, with any luck it will be above the surface swept by the rings.

The valve and its associated parts look to me to be the same as those depicted in Haynes...
Valve stem seal is a push fit on the valve guide, the ridges are simply to provide a better grip between the guide and the seal.

Yeah, either Pete S isn't too bothered about how they're 'layed up' or he took it in like that - I was planning for an engine re-build anyway.

The top compression ring was indeed stuck in the groove - just this cylinder - you can just about see it in the 'before' pic - got it out, though.

The pitting does look as if it is above. I will get myself a honing attachment for the drill, as you suggest - but I can't find your recommended link? Is it the type with 3 flexi arms?

[hutchii]

Armando,

I've found that the 3 stone honing device sold by Machine Mart works pretty well. I successfully re-covered a 3 cylinder FNH tractor engine recently using one of these. A chunk had broken off the piston ( and I didn't find it) and the top ring was in at least 3 pieces. Only 2 pieces were there when I got the piston out. 10ish minutes with the honing tool, new piston and rings, and to date the engine has run for about 200 hours. (that's a lot of miles!) Result. FNH wanted around £3000 for a replacement engine.

[Ken Hanna]

Armando,
this one should do the job of fettling the cylinder bores...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-CAR-ENGIN ... 487cee8a6e
Using a reversible battery drill will make it easy to produce the correct 'cross-hatched' finish.

[Mendip.Wursel]

Hi Armando,

I have had 5 sets of HIF38 flanges laser cut (in stainless steel) and am just waiting on the arrival of the stainless steel mandrel bends. I have sold three, so have two left. The kit is designed to fit onto the std 2CV inlet manifold. But note you will have to cut a hole in the Lomax bonnet and either leave as is, or fit some type of cover - modify an aluminium bowl/serving platter etc...

Currently they are a loose parts kit. The HIF38 flange mounting bolt holes are pilot bored incase you would wish to tap the holes out to M8 - just drill out to 6.8mm and tap with M8 x 1.25 tap. Again the bend is loose so you can align to suit your set-up. For example my own kit is aligned to the off side, where as Chris wants his kits welded directly to the rear.

Regarding price I reckon around £20 + postage - but if you want the holes tapped out and the kit welded that would be more. But note the final price is just to cover my costs incurred as I did this for the benefit of myself and fellow CSC members.

Anyhow the best of luck with your rebuild.

Steve

PS - if it were me and the money is available, I would go for the best quality piston/barrel kit I could get - a good investment in the long run.

Steve
I would be interested in purchasing your last adapter if still available
Many Thanks
Kevin

[QFAD]

Hi Kevin,

That's fine - the last adapter kit is yours.

I have not had any welded as yet - I hope to have one kit welded on Wednesday, so should then be able to confirm welding cost.

I am expecting the remaining 4 mandrel bends (60 degree angle as per the Rover SDI) to be delivered in the first week of June (my supplier went on holiday!).

Kevin can you confirm the alignment of the elbow, or would you prefer your elbow left loose? Again do you want the HIF mounting holes drilled out to 8mm or left as pilot holes so you can tap them to suit M8?

Steve