9:1 upgrade from 8.5:1

[Geoff Ryall-Harvey]

First on my list of things to do when I get back. If you have the parts separate, it's much easier to get them polished before they're welded.

[Mendip.Wursel]

Hi Kevin,

That's fine - the last adapter kit is yours.
Kevin can you confirm the alignment of the elbow, or would you prefer your elbow left loose? Again do you want the HIF mounting holes drilled out to 8mm or left as pilot holes so you can tap them to suit M8?
Steve

Steve
I would rather you weld as my welding is not great. In terms of the alignment I am happy to go with whatever you think is best. The less likely hit on the bonnet then the better, and could you drill to 8mm.
Thanks
Kevin

[QFAD]

Hi Kevin,

Just to confirm I do not think you will get away with NOT having a hole in the bonnet. However I will try to mock-up and see how low I can position the elbow and still be able to mount the flange to the original 2CV inlet manifold, so you need access to fit the m8 nuts.

Do you want the adapter kit polished - I would have to ask my welder to do this so there will be a cost. It really depends on how flash you want your engine to look. Myself I will not bother, just give the adapter a going over with some polish and a tooth brush!

Regarding time line - I reckon the kit would be ready towards the end of June.

All the best,

Steve

PS I tried to email you but your address was not recognised.

[hutchii]

Hi Kevin.
Re the SU adaptor that Steve's providing. It's none of my business but, if it were me, I'd go for M8 tapped holes in the carb mounting flange. That way the 2 gaskets, outer cable mounting bracket and the carb can be hung on 2 studs, and you'll only have to fiddle with the washers and nuts to finish the assembly. In my opinion, trying to hold a loose bolt and the various aforementioned bits in place, can be a real pain! Just a thought!

[Armando]

Glad to say that the barrels are looking good:

Before

DSCF5730_(27May15).JPG (406.29 KiB) Viewed 12665 times

Stripped

IMG-20150527-WA0001_(27May15).jpg (297.31 KiB) Viewed 12665 times

Primed/top-coated (heat-resistant paint)

DSCF5744_(28May15).JPG (435.79 KiB) Viewed 12665 times

The grit-cleaner also took off the pitting/rust observed previously in the bore (just visible in first picture).

Ken - I now have in my possession the recommended honing attachment!

My question is...... what's the technique for honing in order to obtain the correct cross-hatching? The variables are: (a)drill speed (b) clockwise/anticlockwise rotation (c) single or multi-pass, and (d) tension setting on the tool.

[Ken Hanna]

Hi Armando,
am I right in guessing you haven't done much engine work before?
Just wondering if the cylinder bores have been grit blasted and if so, who decided to take that step, since the hone would have removed that light patch of rust above the swept surface...

Anyhow, after a quick look on Youtube, this fellow looks to have the right idea.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1tiboosuyIc
A variable speed or battery drill makes things more controllable, no need to worry about the drill having a reverse function if the rate of movement up and down the barrel is sufficient to create the correct crosshatched pattern.

Btw, don't get carried away with honing; there was a fellow at the 2VBGB National meeting last weekend who had to arrive in his VW camper van because he'd overdone the job of honing his Dyane cylinders, ending up with so much material removed that the pistons only 'fitted where they hit'.

Ken

Glad to say that the barrels are looking good:

The grit-cleaner also took off the pitting/rust observed previously in the bore (just visible in first picture).

Ken - I now have in my possession the recommended honing attachment!

My question is...... what's the technique for honing in order to obtain the correct cross-hatching? The variables are: (a)drill speed (b) clockwise/anticlockwise rotation (c) single or multi-pass, and (d) tension setting on the tool.

[Armando]

Hi Armando,
am I right in guessing you haven't done much engine work before?
Just wondering if the cylinder bores have been grit blasted and if so, who decided to take that step, since the hone would have removed that light patch of rust above the swept surface...

Anyhow, after a quick look on Youtube, this fellow looks to have the right idea.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1tiboosuyIc
A variable speed or battery drill makes things more controllable, no need to worry about the drill having a reverse function if the rate of movement up and down the barrel is sufficient to create the correct crosshatched pattern.

Btw, don't get carried away with honing; there was a fellow at the 2VBGB National meeting last weekend who had to arrive in his VW camper van because he'd overdone the job of honing his Dyane cylinders, ending up with so much material removed that the pistons only 'fitted where they hit'.

Ken

Ken - Regarding strip-downs/engine building, you are correct in your guess!! In fact, 2CV's are/were new to me - never driven one! But I want a Pembleton - that I build myself. A challenge in all respects... new metalwork skills to learn.

Wherever possible, I prefer to get my hands dirty (with inevitable mistakes) - part of the 'fun' and knowledge-gaining process - this forum (and the Pembleton one), and the wealth of experience, is very much appreciated - I will join the club, proper.

Rather than buy a pallet of bits, I wanted to dismantle a whole 2CV donor car to learn how the components were put together - I've stripped and refurbished most of it myself (with Pete's help/advice on the steering rack and rear hub bearing removal) - next time (a Burton, maybe?) I'd buy a pallet of bits to refurbish, though

Having decided on sticking with the 8.5:1 set-up, I wanted the outsides of the barrels de-rusted and figured blasting would be worth a try as I can always get a new set (with pistons) if they cracked or bores were damaged. My lad did the grit-work - he strips/rebuilds brake calipers for Bigg Red (Worcester) - they use a wheelabrator unit - honing would be the final step anyway, to re-instate the required finish (and hopefully not take too much off). Thanks for the link.

BTW - I also purchased the valve compressor set I linked to you - this worked a treat - great value for money.

A.