Gs engine best way keep engine cooler

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2cY
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Re: Gs engine best way keep engine cooler

Post by 2cY » Fri Nov 25, 2016 11:42 am

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Hi Bryan,

Don't know if it will help you, but as an engineer (retired) I look at things in a very slightly way, which is less to do with semantics than thinking about what's happening.. insomuch as I don't use the term 'air cooled' in anything but general banter, but rather use something to the effect of 'heat (energy) dissipated to the cooler air flow (and thence to the atmosphere)'.

Looking at things in this way helps the engineer's mind to mentally visualise what is happening ..or rather what needs to happen.
ie. what is needed for the heat to dissipate* into the air flow ?
. . what is needed for the surrounding air to be cooler ?
. and., what is needed for the air to flow (freely and unhindered into the atmosphere) ? ..likewise when stopped in traffic, or held up at the beginning of a hill climb ?

* clue : 'dissipate' relates to : Transfer and Flow. . Heat 'transfer' is often related to maximising surface areas, surface textures, and/or induced swirl. Heat energy may be transferred via conduction, convection, or radiation). NB. finished surface colours do not matter a jot in the transfer out. Colour only effects the absorption of radiant light energy. (ie. in black solar collectors)

Even in consideration of the 'oil cooler' I think in terms of : 'heat transfer from hot spots in the engine (such as around the exhaust valves) into the oil being circulated, and through a 'heat exchanger.' ie. 'where the heat (energy) is transferred from the oil into the cool air flow. ('flow' being a crucial part of any 'cooling system' whether water or air cooled).

'Cool air flow' ? Yes, for a few parts you might not want to dissipate the heat but rather to contain it or at least shield it. For example ; the exhaust manifolds and pipes may be lagged to contain their heat, until clear of the engine bay. Because if the under-bonnet (or surrounding the engine) air temperature is lower - then the difference between hot engine parts and cooler air will maximize the rate of transfer.

The bottom line is to think and try to understand what is happening to the air flow around your engine, your gearbox, and the inboard brakes, and to see how in the first instance you might improve that, and then - how to improve the heat transfer from engine parts to the (cooler flowing) air.


Just as an example ..to get you thinking : you might note the pre-production Lomax nose & chassis covering panels - were a convex / bulbous nose cone and an upswept-at-the-front cover over the chassis (upswept to mount the number plate). They looked OK as designed by Mr Whall, but for the ugly and vulnerable-to-wet mounting of the alternator. However, for production the front end was redesigned (by an engineer) to improve air flow. The nose cone's lower half was remodeled to be concave and the chassis' valance panel was dropped much tighter to the chassis - each intended to maximise and to scoop the air flow around the exposed cylinder fins and rocker covers. The standard A-series oil cooler was also reinstated, with a slot moulded in for its air intake.

. . . . . while at it - he also combined the previously separate ; nose cone, bonnet, and chassis valance/cover - into one panel, for purpose of easier / quicker production / value engineering = fewer parts to handle & fasten/secure, to eliminate those panel's alignments, and being altogether less expensive for the customer to buy. Of course the standard A-series chassis was also used (which wasn't the case under the prototype). The height of these panels was made so that the Ami's air-intake elbow (to the carburettor) could be used with its the air-filter situated under the bonnet (there is no air filter on the prototype). Oh, and the alternator found its way back inside the nose cone.

Hope something in the above inspires.

2cY.


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