Suspension cylinders.

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Bill Harrison
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Suspension cylinders.

Post by Bill Harrison » Tue Oct 01, 2013 7:54 am

Any tips for sorting out my old suspension cylinders? Thought I would just strip and rebuild-is it worth putting stronger springs in? Do you need an anti-roll bar on the Burton?

callum
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Re: Suspension cylinders.

Post by callum » Tue Oct 01, 2013 8:48 am

Bill. Hello and welcome to the club.

The Burton, being so light, doesn't need uprated springs in the cans, and if you lower the suspension, then an anti-roll bar is unnecessary.

Whilst you're stripping the donor, you should save as many of the original parts as you can. You'll need the handbrake bracket from the parcel shelf which will involved destroying this area on the donor car. If the donor shell is half-reasonable, consider selling it on and sourcing the handbrake brackets from elsewhere (I have a few).

Save all of the m7 bolts and fixings that come out of the donor. Some of them are very useful when building the Burton up.

Also, consider adjusting the castor angle on the front arms at this stage. It allows the completed car to be lowered and makes the steering nice and light again.

Out of interest, what is the donor car?

Rgrds
Callum
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Bill Harrison
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Re: Suspension cylinders.

Post by Bill Harrison » Tue Oct 01, 2013 9:25 am

callum wrote:Bill. Hello and welcome to the club.

The Burton, being so light, doesn't need uprated springs in the cans, and if you lower the suspension, then an anti-roll bar is unnecessary.

Whilst you're stripping the donor, you should save as many of the original parts as you can. You'll need the handbrake bracket from the parcel shelf which will involved destroying this area on the donor car. If the donor shell is half-reasonable, consider selling it on and sourcing the handbrake brackets from elsewhere (I have a few).

Save all of the m7 bolts and fixings that come out of the donor. Some of them are very useful when building the Burton up.

Also, consider adjusting the castor angle on the front arms at this stage. It allows the completed car to be lowered and makes the steering nice and light again.

Out of interest, what is the donor car?

Rgrds
Callum
Hi Callum, thanks for the reply. Funnily enough I've just this minute taken off the handbrake bracket, wipers and demister rod. I'm checking through the burton manual and these are the last things to come out of the shell

What's left of the shell is really bad, the seatbelts have been welded in to extra plates and the front vent and bonnet hinge have virtually disintegrated. The doors have holes... you get the idea! The donor was an '87 special called "Noddy Car" its on facebook if you want to look! https://www.facebook.com/noddy.car.1

I'll have a think about the caster angle-if I lower the rear on the Burton longer tie rods what sort of caster change am I looking at?

cheers

Bill harrison

PS I like the look of your Burton. How lang have you had it on the road?

trikehound
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Re: Suspension cylinders.

Post by trikehound » Wed Oct 02, 2013 3:37 pm

HI BILL,STRIPPED DOWN MY CYLYNDERS ,WITH THE INTENTION OF REBUILDING THEM,THEN I FOUND THAT THE STAINLESS STEEL NEW ONES OFFERED, BY 2CV CITY,CAN BE BROUGHT FOR LITTLE MORE THAN IT WOULD OF COST TO REBUILD! THEY LOOK GOOD AND ALL NEW PARTS GUARANTEED! JUST NEED TO BUY THE OVER LENGH HIEGHT ADJUSTERS SO YOU CAN SET A LOWER HIEGHT,FOUR NEW KNIFE EDGE PINS AND CLIPS AND YOU ARE AWAY!DO NOT FORGET TO USE PLENTY OF COPPER GREASE ON THE THREADS.ALSO ,CLEAN COOKING OIL IN THE CANNISTERS!GOOD LUCK WITH THE BUILD! GRAHAM.

Bill Harrison
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Re: Suspension cylinders.

Post by Bill Harrison » Mon Dec 09, 2013 9:14 am

Too late, I've refurbed mine, used all original parts so just a new end cap needed. Thanks.

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